Here is a guide to assembling the figures and kits that we supply from various suppliers, as well as how to use some of the materials that we supply for modelling and repairs. We made sure that we got the advice from the horses mouths, so we spoke to our suppliers for the best way of assembling their kits. That, and we’re sticklers for detail. We’ll update these pages in line with current thinking, manufacturers advice, and when we have new stuff for you to play with.
Legend Games, Raging Heroes and Wargames Atlantic figures
Some minor preparation work is required for these figures prior to assembly and painting. First of all, soak the plastic sprues in a bowl of cold water and washing up liquid for a couple of hours. This is to remove any mould release that might remain on these finely cast figures. Once soaked, gently wash the sprues under a cold tap and place on some paper towels and leave to completely dry.
To glue the parts together, our recommendation is to use Gorilla Glue, available just about anywhere, and hold the parts together carefully for 30-45 seconds. Take your time and use the correct amount of glue. If you’re unsure of how much is too much, cut out a couple of redundant pieces of sprue and have a play until you’re confident of the correct amount of glue to use.
To prime, we’d recommend using Expo 400ml Acrylic Primer Spray in a suitable colour. We supply this in white, light grey and dark grey.
Moonhopper Laser Cut kits
These are made from 3mm plywood and laser cut. Some minimal tidying up may be required to sand down any sharp edges or to remove potential splinters prior to assembly. Once all the pieces are removed from the wood, sand with fine sandpaper where necessary and glue together using ordinary PVA wood glue adhesive. Clamp together or use elastic bands to hold the pieces together while the glue cures. Ideally, let settle for up to 24 hours, but most PVA glues will be cured within 6 to 8 hours.
Foamex is amazing stuff. That’s why we stock it. It’s comparitively cheap, lightweight and yet extremely rigid. It’s used for shop signs and displays, and comes usually with a protective film on at least one side. You can use it for tiles and terrain, cut it, shape it, glue things to it to make impressive set pieces and obstacles. It can be sawn, drilled, melted with a hot iron.
The best glue to use on Foamex (PVC foam sheet), is to use contact adhesive, and very small amounts of it, as it works by melting the surfaces in order to fuse these together. Best to experiment on off cuts or a small area before committing yourself to a decent adhesive as the results without some practice can range from a weak bond to a disintegrating board. For an easy result, we’d suggest using Gorilla Glue clear contact adhesive, which you can get from any hardware store.
3D printed models
Our 3D printed models can be printed on any home 3D printer, though for best results, we’d suggest using an Elegoo Mars machine if you’re starting out for best results. Each of our downloaded models comes with a simple data sheet, a list of the printable files and come in STL format ready for printing via an expiring link once purchased.
Green Stuff is the trade name for Kneadatite, an amazing modelling putty which comes in two parts, one blue, one yellow, and can be bought in either a ribbon form or in a tube.
Mixing Green Stuff is easy, by tearing off what you need in the ribbon form, and mixing up equal parts, the blue/yellow makes the green putty. The yellow bit is the filler, while the blue component is the hardener. This produces a sticky putty that feels a bit chewed gum. We’d suggest mixing only what you need, and wear suitable protective gloves while using Green Stuff, either latex, nitrile or HDPE gloves if you have a latex allergy. It’s not unpleasant stuff by any means, but it’s always best to treat all plastics as a potential allergen. We don’t stock gloves, but these are readily available from local hardware and retail outlets.
Once mixed, it starts to cure, and you have a working time of 1 ½ to 2 hours before it becomes too hard to work with. By about 4 hours, depending upon room temperature, it should be considered basically cured, but for best results leave it to properly harden for 24 hours before assuming its fully cured.
It’s ideal for sticking to surfaces such as Foamex, or plastic models, and can be used to mould or make anything where with a bit of practice and skill, fine details can be achieved, but for something less sticky with similar properties, we’d suggest using Milliput. If you don’t want the Green Stuff to stick to anything, and are using it for making a mould for example, all you need is a smidgeon of Vaseline or Petroleum Jelly, even KY Jelly as a lubricant. We don’t stock those particular items though. No really, we don’t.
We supply the Superfine White grade of Milliput though we plan to supply some of the different grades in the future. The instructions for mixing all of them is the same.
Cut off an equal amount from each stick, depending on how much you need to use. Mix together firmly with your fingers wearing latex or protective gloves, and have a nice small bowl of water to hand, as moisture is always helpful when using this material. If you wish to use any suitable colourings, now’s the time to add these, as Milliput is great at incorporating dyes and pigments. The putty formed is incredibly squidgy at first and will stick to anything within reason. This slowly hardens, depending on the temperature conditions.
At a decent room temperature, the Milliput will have hardened in about three to four hours. Waving a heat gun gently over it will speed the hardening time up considerably, though it’s probably better and safer we think to let nature take its course. The Milliput will be considered to be fully cured after a further four hours.
Amazingly, Milliput will also set underwater, but don’t put that to the test in your goldfish pond please. The locals will probably not appreciate your efforts and will be floating on the top of the pond before too long in terminal protest. Being a very good adhesive, Milliput will bond together a number of materials including wood, ceramics, metals, bricks and concrete, even glass. What it is not good at, is behaving like a superglue, so we’d advise against trying to use this stuff in thin layers. Ensure that the surface the Milliput is being applied to is clean, and free from dirt and grease. Gently scuffing or abrasing the interfacing surfaces will also help adhesion.
Once set, the Milliput can be machined and drilled, as well as painted and varnished if required. It’s also thermally resisitant to temperatures up to 130°C, and can cope with reasonable variations of heat and cold, solvents and the majority of fuels.
Also, remember to clean any tools or surfaces once you have used the Milliput as it will stick to them. If you’re moulding using Milliput, always use a bit of talcum or a suitable oil in the mould for best results and ease of release.